March has us daydreaming about all things crisp and green—little leafy shoots, early peas, handfuls of fresh herbs—but in reality most spring produce has yet to reach the greenmarket. In the meantime, this hearty potato pizza offers a welcome change of pace from heavier winter fare while still utilizing readily available storage crops and dried herbs. Pair it with a citrus and fennel salad for a lovely late-winter brunch or light dinner.
Native to the Andes and first domesticated 7,000 years ago, Solanum tuberosum came to Italy in the sixteenth century via Spanish conquistadors but was initially regarded with suspicion—perhaps because the leaves and fruits of this nightshade plant are indeed toxic. (For this reason, when buying potatoes, avoid any that are sprouting or have green skin, as well as any that feel soft.) Fortunately for all of us, by the early nineteenth century Italians had made their peace with this reliable crop and integrated it into their regional cuisines.
Today, potato is a much-loved pizza topping, most famously in Rome, where vast rectangular pies are sold al taglio, each slice cut to order and priced by weight. While often garnished only with a bit of olive oil and herbs, this version adds cheese for a richer take; you can substitute Monterey Jack for the fontina if that’s what you have.
The potatoes you’ll find at market in winter and spring were harvested in the fall and then stored in cool, humid conditions to last until the next crop matures (properly stored potatoes can keep for up to seven or eight months). For this recipe, opt for waxy varieties such as ‘Banana’, ‘Amarosa’, ‘Soraya’, or ‘Yukon Gold’.
Recipe: Potato and Red Onion Pizza with Fontina and Thyme
Makes 8 servings
Note: One pizza is likely enough for a meal, unless you are serving a crowd, so although the recipe below makes enough dough for two pizzas, the quantities for the toppings are for one pizza only. You can of course double them if desired, or make a second pizza with different toppings. Alternatively, freeze half of the dough for another time; thaw it overnight in the refrigerator and then let it come to room temperature before topping and baking.
For the dough- 3¾ cups (492 g) all-purpose flour
- 1 packet (2¼ teaspoons) instant yeast
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1½ cups (350 ml) room-temperature water
- 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for the bowl
- 8–12 ounces waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold
- 3–4 ounces fontina cheese, grated (1–1½ cups)
- ½ small red onion, thinly sliced
- ¼ teaspoon dried thyme, or to taste
- A drizzle of olive oil
- Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Make the Dough
In a large bowl, combine the flour, instant yeast, and salt. Add the water and olive oil. Stir with a wooden spoon until the dough comes together in a shaggy mass, then continue to mix and knead with your hands until the dough is relatively uniform, 3 to 5 minutes. The dough will be very soft and sticky—that’s okay! Wetting your hands can help prevent sticking. (You could also make this in a stand mixer, if you have one; use the dough hook attachment.)
Pour a little olive oil into a clean mixing bowl, then transfer the dough to the bowl and turn it a couple times to coat completely with oil. Cover with a kitchen towel and let rise until doubled in size, 60 to 90 minutes.
Top and Bake the Pizza
While the dough is rising, put the potatoes in a saucepan or small pot and add enough water to cover by about 1 inch. Cover and bring to a boil. Uncover and boil gently until the potatoes can be pierced with a sharp knife but still offer a little resistance, about 5 minutes for small potatoes (longer for larger potatoes). Transfer the potatoes to a plate or cutting board to cool.
When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, slice them as thinly as you can.
About half an hour before you are ready to bake, preheat the oven to 475°F. Have ready an ungreased baking sheet.
Divide the dough in half. Plop one half into a resealable freezer bag and freeze it for later use. Stretch the remaining dough into a large rectangle on your baking sheet. The soft dough may feel a little unwieldy but should be easy enough to lift, stretch, and press evenly into place with your fingers. If the dough shrinks back while you are trying to stretch it, let it rest for about 5 minutes and then try again.
Spread the cheese evenly over the dough. Arrange the potato slices on top, overlapping slightly, and then the onion. Drizzle with olive oil, then sprinkle with the thyme and a generous amount of salt and pepper.
Bake until the edges of the crust are golden brown and the cheese is melted, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.
The Eat Local series features seasonal, locally available ingredients and recipes. It was the recipient of a 2016 Silver Medal for Blog Writing from the Garden Writers Association.
